Bangladesh

From the traveltalk.dk family – started in Denmark in 2018

Read in: Dansk (original)

Bangladesh

Bangladesh is a country in South Asia. Before 1971 it was known as East Pakistan. Its neighbouring countries are India to the west, north and east, and Myanmar to the east. To the south lies the Indian Ocean.

It is a rather overlooked travel destination. This is somewhat undeserved, perhaps because we think of floods and a huge population, but the country has a great deal more to offer than population growth and has considerable landscape value. Many believe it is not safe to travel here, but this is contradicted both by statistics and by the tourists who actually venture into the country. They also report that it is a true sensory overload 24/7 and that Dhaka is absolutely worth seeing. It is also a highly relevant first-mover destination. We are probably in the adventure category. We will return to this beautiful country in the context of its considerable technological development.

• Capital: Dhaka
• Area: 147,570 km²
• Population: 161 million (2015) World Bank
• Currency: Bangladeshi taka
• Prime Minister: Sheikh Hasina
• Official language: Bengali

Food and drink

Bengali cuisine is largely built on rice, fish and lentils. Fish is a central part of the meal, and hilsa, a rich oily sea fish that is especially prized in spring and autumn, is regarded as a national dish. Many dishes are prepared with mustard seed, coconut, chilli and tamarind, and the flavours are often both sharp and aromatic. Vegetarian dishes are widespread, and vegetable curry and dal are often served alongside rice.

Eating habits differ from those in Denmark. People typically eat with their right hand, and many prefer to eat from shared dishes. It is good manners to offer to share the food and to eat slowly. Dishes are often served very spicy, so you can ask for milder versions.

Hygiene requires attention. Only drink bottled water with an intact seal, and avoid ice cubes unless you know where they were made. Prefer food that has been cooked hot and fresh, and be careful with peeled fruit and salads if the water quality is doubtful. Fresh juices from street vendors can be risky.

Religious norms also shape mealtimes. The large majority of the population is Muslim, and pork is not part of the local cuisine. Alcohol is restricted and, in most settings outside a few hotels and restaurants, not available. During Ramadan most people eat only after sunset, and it is good practice to respect this in public.

Safety and culture

Bangladesh is a large and densely populated country, and most travellers have a trip without problems. There are, however, periods of political unrest, demonstrations and strikes, especially around elections and major political events. It is wise to keep up with local news and travel advice from the Danish authorities, and to avoid large crowds when the situation is tense. Petty theft and pickpocketing occur in traffic and at markets, so keep your passport, money and phone close to your body.

Dress matters a great deal. Both men and women should dress modestly, with long sleeves and long trousers or skirts, and this is especially important in villages and at religious sites. Many women wear a headscarf, and it is a good idea to carry one for visits to mosques and shrines. Public contact between men and women is limited, and it is best to wait for locals to initiate a handshake.

Women should be alert to harassment on the street and on public transport. Many choose to travel by taxi or rickshaw rather than walk alone in the evening, and it is an advantage to have a reliable contact in the country. Photographing people, especially women, should be done with care, and you should ask first.

In general, local hospitality is great, and many people will be glad to help. Respecting the norms and behaving calmly makes it easier to get around safely.

Getting there

Most international visitors fly into Hazrat Shahjalal International Airport in Dhaka. The airport lies northeast of the city, and there are direct connections from several major European and Asian hubs. Many travellers, however, choose to connect via the Middle East or another Asian hub, because the choice of direct flights is limited. It pays to check the route network when booking, and to allow for long waiting times in transit.

Danish citizens need a visa to enter Bangladesh. The rules change from time to time, and fees and documentation requirements can vary, so you should check the current conditions with the Bangladeshi embassy or the official visa system before buying tickets. Your passport must be valid for a period extending beyond the trip, and it is a good idea to have copies of your documents as well as proof of your visa available during your stay.

On arrival at Dhaka airport there are often long queues at immigration, so it is an advantage to allow time for this.

Best time to travel

Bangladesh has a tropical monsoon climate, and this affects everything you plan. The dry and most comfortable period runs from about November to February. It is cool in the morning and evening, and humidity is lower than the rest of the year. Dhaka is still dusty and heavily trafficked in those months, so early in the day is the best time to get out.

From March temperatures rise sharply, and in April and May heatwaves can make the midday hours almost unbearable. The monsoon typically sets in around June and lasts until October. The rain often comes in heavy downpours, and large parts of the country, especially the low-lying areas and river plains, are under water. Floods are least likely in the dry winter season, and this is when most travellers should plan their visit.

Even in the winter months local weather can change, so if you have planned longer trips out of the cities, especially in the southern coastal areas, it is wise to keep an eye on the forecasts.

Getting around the country

The most characteristic way to get around the cities is by rickshaw. There are both pedal rickshaws and motorised versions, and in Dhaka they are often the only way through narrow streets where cars are stuck fast. You should agree on the price before you climb aboard, and haggling is normal. Traffic is dense and chaotic, so trips during the rush hour can take far longer than expected.

Buses cover most routes between towns and villages, but they are often overcrowded, and departure times are not always reliable. Trains are cheaper and often more comfortable, especially on the main long-distance lines, but delays can occur, and tickets for popular services should be bought early. River boats and ferries are an important part of transport in the delta areas, where the road network is limited, and they may be the only practical connection to many places.

Domestic flights are also available, but connections are few and can be cancelled at short notice. Expect journey times between towns to be longer than the maps suggest, and plan your days with a generous margin.

Accommodation

In Dhaka you will find everything from large international hotels in the newer districts to simple guesthouses in the denser, older neighbourhoods. The more expensive hotels are concentrated in the areas where most foreign visitors stay, and here the standard is often on a par with what you would expect in other major Asian cities. In the cheaper guesthouses the rooms are more modest, but many have clean bedding and a serviceable bathroom. Standards vary considerably, so it can pay to read recent reviews and ask to see the room before you pay.

Outside the capital the choice is more limited. In larger provincial towns you will often find mid-range hotels, while accommodation in smaller villages can be very basic. Many hotels do not accept credit cards, so it is a good idea to carry cash.

Rooms for the high season and for major local events should be booked well in advance, as availability quickly runs short. It is also wise to ask the hotel about electricity and water supply, as interruptions can occur.

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