Mozambique

From the traveltalk.dk family – started in Denmark in 2018

Read in: Dansk (original)

Mozambique as a destination

Mozambique is one of Africa’s most overlooked destinations – and it really shouldn’t be. With more than 2,500 kilometres of coastline, crystal-clear lagoons, tropical islands and national parks on the road to recovery, the country offers an unforgettable mix of beach, safari and culture.

Mozambique lies on Africa’s east coast facing the Indian Ocean and borders South Africa, Tanzania and Zimbabwe, which makes it an obvious choice to combine with other destinations in southern Africa.

Want the essentials about Mozambique in 30 seconds? See our travel facts here.

How to get around the country

Distances in Mozambique are long, and road conditions vary a great deal. The main roads between the larger towns are usually paved, but many secondary roads are gravel tracks that quickly become difficult in rainy weather. Here it helps to have a vehicle with good ground clearance and experience of driving on rough roads, or to hire a driver.

For the islands and some of the coastal areas, small planes or boats are often used. Flights to the smaller airports can be cancelled or delayed, especially in the wet season, so expect your plans to change along the way.

Ferry services exist in several places, but they are not always fixed and can be irregular. In the national parks it is typically necessary to stay at a lodge or travel with a guide, and transport is often arranged by your accommodation. Avoid driving yourself in the parks without a clear agreement on what is permitted.

Safety and practical advice

Mozambique has experienced periods of political unrest and armed conflict, particularly in the northern provinces. It is important to keep up to date with the current situation, and you should check your government’s travel advice before you travel. Avoid moving around areas where advice warns against travel, and follow local instructions.

There is also a risk of petty crime in the larger cities. Keep an eye on your belongings in markets and traffic, and only use licensed taxis or transport arranged by your accommodation.

Check your vaccinations with your doctor or a travel health clinic well in advance. A yellow fever certificate may be required on entry, depending on where you are coming from. Malaria occurs throughout the country, so talk to your doctor about prevention and bring insect protection.

Payments are made in the local currency, the metical. Cards are accepted in larger hotels and restaurants, but in rural areas and smaller shops cash is essential. Bring some local currency with you, and avoid carrying large amounts on your person.

Where to stay

Accommodation options range widely. In the cities and along the coast you will find simple guesthouses and pensions, which are inexpensive and often good at helping with transport and excursions. Standards can vary, so read reviews and ask what is included.

Mid-range options consist of smaller hotels and beach resorts, especially in Maputo and at Tofo and Vilanculos. These often offer a pool, a restaurant and the option of diving or boat trips.

On the islands and in the finest natural areas you will find lodges and exclusive island resorts. Prices are typically considerably higher and may include meals, transport and activities. This is where you find the calm, almost secluded atmosphere that many people are after. Prices vary considerably from season to season, so always check the current rate directly with the property.

How to get there

Most travellers fly to Maputo in Mozambique, where the international airport is located. There are often direct connections from South Africa, and many European travellers choose a route via Johannesburg, where you change planes. This is the most common route, and it also makes it possible to spend a few days in South Africa before or after.

From other airports in Mozambique, for example Beira and Nampula, there are domestic connections, but the network is more limited, so check connections well in advance before planning the rest of your trip.

You can also enter from neighbouring countries by bus or car. The border crossings from South Africa and Eswatini are the most used, and the roads are generally good. Still, watch out for queues at the borders and plan your day so that you are not on the road after dark.

Why travel to Mozambique?

• Dream beaches and tropical islands: Island groups such as Bazaruto and Quirimbas offer white sand beaches, luxury lodges and some of the world’s best diving and snorkelling.
• A cultural meeting point: Portuguese colonial history meets African traditions and Arab influences. The capital, Maputo, is known for its music, art and colourful markets.
• Safari and national parks: Gorongosa National Park has become a model for nature restoration and attracts a growing number of safari enthusiasts.
• Authenticity and adventure: Mozambique remains relatively untouched by mass tourism, which makes it ideal for travellers seeking the genuine and the wild.

Mozambique is an obvious way to round off a safari in Kruger National Park in South Africa, or a beach holiday after trekking Mount Kilimanjaro in Tanzania. Many flight routes go via Johannesburg, which makes it easy to combine experiences across borders.

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When should you travel?

The best period is normally May to November, which is the dry season. The skies are usually clear, humidity is lower, and this is when safaris in the inland national parks are most practical, as the animals gather at the waterholes.

From October to March it is hot and humid, and it rains for most of the time, often in heavy showers in the afternoon. Green scenery and fewer visitors are the benefits; the drawback is that roads can become poor and some areas difficult to reach.

Be aware that cyclones can hit the coast between December and April. They can cause major disruption to flights, ferries and accommodation on the islands, so it is a good idea to have a flexible plan and travel insurance that covers that kind of delay.

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Islands and coastal destinations

Mozambique’s coast is divided into very different places. The Bazaruto islands off Vilanculos are the best-known island group. Here the sandbanks are long and white, and the water is calm and pale green, which makes it well suited to those who want to relax and snorkel. There are few buildings, and several of the islands have just a single lodge. The dugongs that live in the area are rare, and you should not count on seeing them.

The Quirimbas islands further north are more remote. They lie close to the northern border and are known for old coral towns with Portuguese architecture and waters that are ideal for diving. It is a place for those with some experience who are ready to spend time getting around. Connections are few, and you should expect flights on small aircraft or long boat journeys, which may be cancelled in bad weather.

Tofo near Inhambane is a different kind of place. Here there is a long, sandy beach with chalky cliffs and a life that is more relaxed and centres on surfing and diving. It is easier to reach than the island groups, as you drive there along the road from Inhambane. Tofo suits those who want to stay close to the sea with easy days and good restaurants, while Vilanculos works best as a base for the islands.

Be aware that coastal areas are affected by monsoon rains and cyclones during the summer half of the year. Boats and flights can be out of action for several days, and several lodges close during the wet period. Always ask the place how guests get to and from the island before you book.

Prices and budget

Prices in Mozambique vary widely, and it helps to plan with a rough sense of the levels. At the cheaper end there are guesthouses and pensions in Maputo, Inhambane and Tofo, where you stay in simple rooms and eat local food. Here the largest daily expense is often transport, which can be high relative to food, because hiring a private driver and car is expensive.

In the mid-range you will find smaller hotels and beach resorts. Here breakfast and a simple lunch are often included, and excursions for diving and boat trips become a larger item in the budget. In many places you therefore spend more on activities than on the accommodation itself.

The exclusive lodges on the islands and in the national parks sit in a completely different price bracket. The rate is typically per person per night and often includes meals, drinks, transport and guided activities. Always check what is included, as it can change the comparison considerably.

I cannot put concrete figures on daily prices, because they fluctuate a great deal between seasons and places, and I would rather not give you amounts to plan by. Use the places’ own rates as a starting point, and allow a buffer for transport, as that is the item that most often surprises.

Food and drink

Mozambican cuisine is a blend of basic African principles and Portuguese influence. Matapa is perhaps the best-known dish: a dish of sweet potato, coconut and peanuts, often with prawns or crab. It is typically served with rice or nshima, a maize porridge, which accompanies almost every meal. Piri-piri chicken is also widespread, the chicken marinated in chilli and lemon and grilled over charcoal. In the coastal towns, shellfish and fish are cheap and fresh, and prawns and crabs can be found both at markets and in simple restaurants.

Good places to eat are often the small local restaurants, the so-called cantinas, which serve the dish of the day. This is where locals eat, and it is often where the food is best. In Maputo you can also find restaurants with a Portuguese character, where the fish dishes are more refined. Ask your host where they eat themselves.

Do not drink the tap water without boiling or filtering it. Use bottles with a sealed cap, including for brushing your teeth. Many hotels and lodges offer clean water, and it is a good idea to take a bottle with you when heading out into the country. Ice and ice cubes in small places can also be unreliable, so be careful with them.

For drinks, local beers and Portuguese wine are available in the larger towns and at hotels. There is also fresh fruit juice, and in some areas you can try local drinks, but ask first what they are made from.

Visas and entry

It is your responsibility to check the current requirements before you travel, as the rules can change. Danish citizens must hold a passport that is valid and which normally needs to have some remaining validity beyond the travel date. It is a good idea to check this with the Danish Ministry of Foreign Affairs and by contacting the Mozambican embassy or a consulate before you book.

A visa may be required, and in some cases it can be applied for in advance. Do not rely on information from old blogs or forums, but check it with the official sources. Carry copies of your passport and visa, and keep them separate from the originals.

On arrival, expect a passport check and possibly a yellow fever vaccination certificate check. You may be asked about the purpose of your trip and the length of your stay. Keep your papers ready, and answer calmly and briefly. It is normal to be asked to show a return ticket or a plan for leaving the country.

Also allow for the fact that border controls can take time, especially at land borders. Carry cash in the local currency in case fees need to be paid, and make sure your itinerary has enough room for possible delays.

Language and communication

Portuguese is the official language and what you will hear in most towns, in government offices and at hotels. Besides Portuguese, several local Bantu languages are spoken, and in rural areas these are often what people use among themselves. English is used mostly in tourist areas and by guides, while it is less widespread outside them. Many lodges and larger hotels have staff who speak good English, but this cannot always be taken for granted in smaller towns.

A few words and phrases make a big difference. You can say bom dia for good morning and obrigado or obrigada for thank you, depending on whether you are a man or a woman. It is a good idea to learn these, as they are met with a smile. If you want to ask about a price, you can say quanto custa, and quanto é is a friendly way to ask.

When you use guides, it is an advantage to agree on the language in advance. Ask whether the guide speaks English and what it costs. Feel free to use an interpreter if you need to negotiate something important. Be polite and calm in your communication, even when there are misunderstandings.

Show respect towards local people, and ask before photographing people. It is a common courtesy, and it creates a better connection, especially when you move away from the tourist areas.